A too short interlude – München

For me, a visit to Bayern isn’t complete without a trip to the city of my birth and where I had my first law job after law school. This time it would be a bit tricky, since the Deutsche Bahn was going on strike every other day, or so it seemed. Luckily, my cousin’s wife was heading into Munich* one of the days I wanted to visit, so she dropped me off at the Donnersbergerbrücke before heading off to the Kunsthalle. The S-/U-Bahn was running that day, so I took it to the Hauptbahnhof.

Fußgänger Zone

Fußgänger Zone

I then walked to the Hugendubel off of Marienplatz.

I love spending time and money here

I love spending time and money here

As usual, I got a little overwhelmed by the selection, so I emailed a [virtual] friend, Katy Derbyshire for some recommendations. To my happy surprise, she replied almost immediately, and I picked up Im Kopf von Bruno Schulz and Johnny und Jean, as well as a book I’d been looking for for awhile, Sendlinger G’schichten by Sigi Sommer. Purchases safely in my backpack, I made my way over to the Jewish Museum for two exhibits recommended by the Sueddeutsche:

The Jewish Museum

The Jewish Museum

1. War! Jews between the fronts, 1914-1918  and

2. Culture on the brink: Jewish life on the Tegernsee, 1900-1933

I was actually a little surprised I got to see the second one, since it wasn’t supposed to start until that evening. Both exhibits were pretty intense. Inside the museum, I saw someone who looked an aweful like Munich’s former mayor, Christian Ude.

An hour and a half later, it was time to meetup with Ken McBeth Knowles at the Ladencafé Marais.  I was a little apprehensive, since I had never met him in person before, only through twitter and google+. I needn’t have worried, as he and his friend Elaine were warm, interesting, and entertaining companions. I had a blast and learned a lot. After a leasurely cake and coffee,  I hurried over to the Lenbachhaus, my absolute favorite museum, in order to reacquaint myself with my favorite artist, August Macke. There is also a fun portrait of one of my favorite authors, Oskar Maria Graf by Georg Schrimpf that I wanted to see in person.

The Lenbachhause, which has a new entrance after an multiyear rennovation

The Lenbachhause, which has a new entrance after a multiyear rennovation

This used to be the entrance, back when I lived in Munich

This used to be the entrance, back when I lived in Munich

A couple of hours later, it was time for dinner. I headed off to the Weisses Brauhaus in Tal, although I did stop off first at the TSV 1860 fan shop to pick up a winter hat, especially since we are supposed to have a very cold winter here in Baltimore this year.

Where I go whenever I'm in Munich

Where I go whenever I’m in Munich

It was still relatively warm in Munich, so I sat outside. I couldn’t decide what kind of meat to eat, so I ordered a 3-fer: 2 cuts of pork and a cut of beef. It went well with the Aventinus and the Sendlinger Stories of Sigi Sommer.

Etwas vom Schwein, a Semmelknöd'l and an Aventinus

Etwas vom Schwein, a Semmelknöd’l and an Aventinus

After dinner, I caught the 20:35  train from Munich. According to my fitbit, I walked 13 miles that day.

* She was helping to set up the Munich Rococo from Asam to Günther exhibit.

Why I’m a fan of TSV 1860

Ich kam ende Juli in München zur Welt (Sternzeichen = Löwe). Und wie wir alle wissen, einmal Löwe, immer Löwe.

I was born in Munich at the end of July (astrological sign = Leo). And as everyone knows, once a lion, always a lion

I know it’s early….

… but gee, TSV 1860 has looked pretty impressive so far this season.

Karl-Heinz Wildmoser is dead

The former president of my favorite soccer team died today. Details at SpiegelOnline and KickerOnline.

Back in the USA

The start of the TSV 1860 II game

I had a great (albeit way too short) time in Bavaria. Yet even with the short amount of time I had, I was able to:

  • Visit all my relatives
  • Spend 2 days in Munich.
  • Watch 2 complete performances of the Passion Play.  Yes, I spent over 10 hours watching it. It was worth it.
  • Watch a soccer game at the Grünwalderstadion.
  • Drink some excellent beer. The Unertl from Mühldorf was a revelation.
  • Take in the Hertha Müller exhibit at the Literaturhaus München (which I thought was very impressive).
  • Spend an afternoon at the Franz Marc Museum in Kochel.
  • Buy tons of books.  Is Hugendubel the Starbucks of bookstores? There seemed to be one on nearly every street corner in Munich.

In Bavaria

Finally made it to Bavaria, despite the volcano throwing some ash my way.  It did cause me to miss my connecting flight at Heathrow (sat on the arrival tarmac waiting for a gate to open up as my scheduled flight to Munich left without me), but in the end I was able to catch a later flight.

I’m heading to Munich tomorrow to buy some books, take in an 1860 game at the Grünwalder Stadion, and drink some Aventinus at the Weisses Brauhaus.

Huh?

The decision makers at TSV 1860 never cease to amaze me. There is currently a shortage of healthy strikers at the club, so what do they do? They loan one of their strikers to English side, Plymouth Argyles.  Oy!  And what does that say about the U.S. team’s chances if he makes the team when he can’t even crack the starting 11 for a second division team?